So, a few years ago I went to Spain. I wanted to immerse myself into the culture as a living, breathing, working part of the population (read: I was broke) so I got a job cooking for an upscale catering company in Madrid. I learned about tortillla, paella, fedeua, squid, langoustines, hake, pimientos, pulpo, and pimenton. But what really intrigued me was the contagious enthusiasm the Spaniards have for the pig. Jamon Iberico, lomo, cured, roasted, simmered, stewed – whenever I asked questions about the pork dishes of Spain I was met with emotional orations dripping with passion and an adamant insistence on tradition and region.
It was about then that I asked about cuchinillo…the simple, rustic roasted suckling pig. The cooks all said one word in unision: Segovia. So, about, oh, 10 minutes later I had a bus ticket to Segovia in hand and took the hour trip north of Madrid to the little medieval town of Segovia. Segovia consists of a network of chaotic, narrow cobblestone streets, a few squares, and a dramatic castle (which I am told inspired Walt Disney to create Cinderella’s castle at Disney World). As you walk up and down the alleys and streets, every restaurant window has suckling pigs in the windows…beckoning you inside to try their famous specialty. But I had a specific address in mind: Jose Maria, the temple of suckling pig.

Now, in segovia, the pig is paraded out to the tables and, in dramatic fashion, is cut by a plate to accentuate its succulent tenderness. There are specific wines (mostly from Castilla y Leon, the region Segovia is located in) that are served with the pig and certain side dishes (patatas panaderas – potatoes roasted with onions, garlic, white wine, and the drippings from the pork…stewed fava beans…slivered vegetable salads) that are enjoyed by Segovians. The experience is, well, amazing! The food was super tasty and full of history. I guess what really hit me, however, was how powerful an icon food can be for a community. Everyone was really into it, and rightfully so! There were people from Segovia mixed with tourists and Spaniards from other regions who traveled just to be part of the party. Everyone was relaxed and the tradition of sharing the family-style meal gave rich meaning to the ritualistic nightly gathering.
Now, why would I be talking about this right about now? Because, next Tuesday, April 27th, the KITCHENETTE SF crew is recreating this very special meal. At Heart Wine Bar (1270 Valencia) we will be seating and serving our own, localized version of the Segovia experience…with Heart’s own Jeff Segal pouring some VERY VERY special wines that will make you VERY VERY happy. If you have not yet been to Heart, this is a great way to check it out! If you have, you know that the Heart setting is exactly perfect for this kind of food. Seating is community, with long wood tables that will allow you to get cozy friendly with your table-mates. We will be locking the doors to the public and getting loose with some good food and drink. Who knows, you may even pass by someone you met at this dinner on the street and high five them spontaneously. I mean, there is a weird comraderie that is created between people who share pig. I never pass judgement. What happens at Heart stays at Heart. Interested? Go here next!
-Douglas